Capital Grill: Get Religion

I discovered religion at the Capital Grill. This is not some self-depriving, woe is me religion, but a full blown hedonistic religion like they use to have in the good ole days. I have eaten enough steak in high-end steak places around the world to be uniformly disappointed by all the hype. Well, let me witness, the steaks at the Capital Grill are not hype.

We went to the Capital Grill with our fine dining club. It was also a birthday and the table was festively strewn with miniature Italian candies. I saw another table covered with rose petals so these guys know how to throw a party. Our group was large, so we were not seated in the main, more masculine area, but instead were seated in a side room. Given the clientele, I would have preferred a more prominent table. I hate being shoved in a corner.

Knowing that our entrees would resemble the continent of Africa, we skipped the appetizer and went straight for the jugular. Bring on the beef! I had the Porcini rubbed Delmonico with aged balsamic vinaigrette. This is a popular selection and although I hate to blend in with the herd, its popularity is well deserved. I kid you not it was melting in my mouth and was as smooth as fois gras. The flavoring was a delightful surprise as well. Somehow my subsequent attempts to dump Balsamic Vinegar onto my steaks at home have not come close.

The Capital Grill, which is a chain oh purists out there, is a typical steak place in that everything is al a carte. We ordered the Lobster Mac & Cheese, some potatoes, as well as the Asparagus sans Hollandaise for our sides. There was plenty to share. One member of our party ordered the Kona encrusted dry aged sirloin, which I confess I did not think was as tasty as the Delmonico. He raved and drooled, however, which shows you there is something out there for everyone.

Here’s a technical tidbit on the aging of steaks. Dry aging occurs in the refrigerator before the meat is cut. The time can vary between 10 and 28 days. Dry aging sucks all the moisture out of the steak, which concentrates the flavor and gives it a distinctive taste. It also tenderizes the meat by making it “rot” in a delightfully artesian way. Wet aging also tenderizes the meat but since it is vacuum packed in its own juices you don’t get the signature concentration of flavors. The majority of the cuts at the Capital Grill are dry aged, so their flavors pack a punch.

Our wine for the evening was a 2003 Crozes Hermitage by Paul Jaboulet. A straight Shiraz, this intense wine complimented the steaks wonderfully and did not cost more than the food, which is always a good thing. Our waiter was very knowledgeable about both the wine and the restaurant, regaling us with tales of cows gone bad, corporate mergers, and other sundry tidbits of gossip. We never felt neglected.

Given our barbaric appetites up to this point it is surprising we could even consider dessert but it was a birthday after all. We ordered the fresh berries and cream, which was light and refreshing and did not put us over the edge into a food coma even though at that point almost anything would.

This trip to the Capital Grill took place in April so you can see I am woefully behind in my restaurant reviews. Too many hikes to rave about I guess. This month’s 5280 magazine lists Denver’s Top of the Town and for best steak the editors picked Elway’s while the readers picked the Capital Grill. Their review prompted me to get off my well-fed tail and write up my impressions. Now I am going to have to check out Elway’s and do a taste comparison. In the meantime, you can’t go wrong with the Capital Grill as long as you are willing to pay homage to the deities of hedonism. Health nuts that don’t know how to enjoy themselves once in a while need not join in the revival. I for one will be leading the chorus. Now I know why those choral outfits are tent-like!